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Make a fish dish that’s a breezy snap

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Few fresh foods are more tempting than a tomato in season. The only “preparation” it needs is to be pulled off the vine, sliced, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt. Done! But until those perfect specimens appear, try this recipe’s roasted tomato vinaigrette. It’s a knockout. Any tomato will do — beefsteak, plum, cherry, you name it — as long as it’s ripe. To determine its ripeness, simply smell the stem end, which should boast an intense aroma of … tomato. Then roast the winners to eliminate excess water and concentrate their flavor. Finally, puree them with sherry vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil. (Sherry vinegar is my...

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